If you’re here because a single piece of cardboard costs the same as a minor appliance, i get it. Magic: The Gathering is a great game that occasionally forgets it’s a game and turns into a collectibles arms race. That’s why people learn how to make MTG proxy cards: so you can play the deck you want, test ideas, and keep your “real” cards from getting chewed up by shuffling, drinks, and that one friend who riffle-shuffles like they’re mad at the concept of corners.
This guide is about making proxies for casual play and playtesting. Not sanctioned events. Not “oops i accidentally made something that looks real.” If your goal is to fool anyone, stop here. You’re not making a proxy. You’re making a problem.
What are proxy cards (and why everyone argues about them)
A proxy is a stand-in for a real Magic card. In casual play, that usually means a printout in a sleeve, or a basic land with “Underground Sea” scribbled on it. In sanctioned tournaments, “proxy” has a very specific meaning: a judge may issue one in limited situations, like when a card becomes damaged during the event. Players do not get to make their own and show up acting surprised when that goes poorly. (More on that in a second.)
Also worth saying out loud: playtest cards, proxies, and counterfeits are not the same thing. Wizards of the Coast has been pretty clear that they don’t want to police personal, non-commercial playtest cards, but they do care a lot about sanctioned events using authentic cards and about stopping counterfeits. That’s the line. It’s not subtle. It’s basically painted on the wall.
So when you make proxies, make them:
readable
consistent
clearly not real cards (mark them, change the back, keep them sleeved)
used only where they’re allowed
Yes, you can still make them look “nice.” Just don’t make “nice” mean “deceptive.”
Before you print: know the rules where you’re playing
Here’s the quick reality check.
Sanctioned tournaments
In sanctioned play, you can’t just roll in with home-printed proxies. The Magic Tournament Rules spell out that players may not create their own proxies; only the Head Judge can issue one, and only under defined conditions (like damage during the tournament). If you’re going to a sanctioned event, assume proxies are a no-go unless a judge tells you otherwise, in the moment, for a specific reason.
Casual nights, Commander pods, and kitchen table Magic
This is where proxies actually live. The “rules” are social:
Ask first.
Keep it readable.
Don’t use proxies as an excuse to bring a cEDH nuclear device to a precon table unless everyone wants that.
If you want a clean, sane checklist for the social side, review our trust center. (Yes, it’s possible to talk about proxy etiquette without starting a forum war. Rare, but possible.)
Supplies you’ll need (and what’s optional but saves your sanity)
Bare minimum:
Printer (inkjet or laser)
Cardstock (or decent paper, if you’re sleeving over a real card)
Scissors (or a paper trimmer if you love clean edges)
Ruler or straight edge
Glue stick or double-sided tape
“Sacrificial” bulk card (a basic land or random common)
Sleeves (clear front, opaque back is your friend)
Nice upgrades that make your proxies look less like a school project:
Paper trimmer (guillotine style)
Corner rounder (the tiny tool that instantly makes things feel more “card-like”)
Cutting mat + craft knife (if you’re careful and enjoy living dangerously)
A test sheet of plain paper for sizing checks
You don’t need a $900 printer. You do need to stop printing at “Fit to page,” then acting confused when everything is slightly wrong.
Step 1: Choose the card image (or go “text-only” for fast playtesting)
You’ve got two broad approaches:
Option A: fast and ugly (but totally valid)
Use a basic land and write the card name (and key notes) with a marker. This is the purest form of playtesting. It also looks like what it is: a stand-in. Wizards has explicitly described playtest cards in this “obviously not a real card” style as fine for personal, non-commercial use outside sanctioned events.
Option B: printed fronts (still a proxy, just prettier)
If you want the card frame, rules text, and art for readability, use a high-quality image and print it. Aim for clear text above all else. Nobody cares if your proxy’s blacks are 3% warmer. They do care if they can’t read the card from across the table without grabbing it like a museum curator.
Quick note on IP: you’re using someone else’s art and a company’s card frames. Keep it personal, keep it non-commercial, and don’t pretend it’s official. If you want to get extra safe, add a big “PROXY” label somewhere.
Step 2: Set the correct size (this is where most DIY proxies go to die)
A Magic card is standard trading card size, commonly referenced as 63 x 88 mm (2.5 x 3.5 inches). If your print is even slightly off, you’ll feel it in a sleeved deck.
Do this:
Set your document to actual card size.
Print at 100% / actual size.
Turn off “Fit to page” and any scaling.
Print one test sheet first.
A simple reality check: hold a real card up to the print before you cut anything. If it’s obviously larger or smaller, fix it now. Do not “trust the process.” The process hates you.
Step 3: Print multiple cards per page (clean layout beats chaos)
You can print one proxy at a time, sure. You can also hand-wash your socks in the sink. But why.
Make a simple grid, like 3x3 on letter paper, so you get nine cards per page. Keep small cut lines or spacing between cards so you’re not guessing where one ends and the next begins.
A lot of people export to PDF because it helps preserve sizing and layout. Whatever you do, just make it consistent. “I printed the front from one program and scaled it in another” is a classic story that ends with re-printing everything.
Step 4: Cut cleanly (scissors work, but you’ll earn what you get)
If you use scissors:
go slow
use a ruler as a guide
expect some slight wobble unless you’re secretly a surgeon
If you use a paper trimmer:
your cuts will look cleaner
you will feel superior (briefly, until you realize you still need to round corners)
Then round the corners. This step is optional, but it’s the difference between “this feels like a card” and “this feels like a flyer someone left on my windshield.”
Step 5: Mount it to a real card (or don’t, depending on your sleeves)
Most DIY proxies feel “right” when they’re in a sleeve with a real card behind them. That bulk card adds stiffness, thickness, and shuffle feel.
Two common methods:
Method A: the sleeve sandwich (recommended)
Put your printed proxy in front
Put a basic land or junk card behind it
Sleeve both
Pros: fast, no glue, easy to swap
Cons: if your print is too thin or the sleeve is too clear, the back might show through
Method B: glue/tape mount (more “finished,” more annoying)
Light glue stick or double-sided tape
Mount the printed front onto a bulk card
Sleeve it
Pros: feels more like a single piece
Cons: too much adhesive warps cards, and then you get the Pringle Experience
If you want your deck to shuffle smoothly, consistency matters more than perfection. Ten slightly imperfect proxies that all feel the same is better than one “amazing” proxy and nine flimsy ones.
Step 6: Sleeve choices matter more than you think
If you do one thing “pro” in a DIY proxy setup, make it this: use opaque-backed sleeves.
Opaque sleeves:
hide different card backs
reduce “marked card” issues
make mixed proxy/non-proxy decks feel uniform
Clear sleeves are fine for tokens or double-faced check cards, but for proxies they can create accidental tells, especially if your proxy paper is a different brightness than real cardstock.
And yes, sleeving is also what keeps your print from getting scuffed into oblivion after three shuffles.
Tips and tricks that actually help (not the stuff people say to sound wise)
Print a test sheet. Always. Even when you “know” it’s right.
Prioritize readability. If the rules text is fuzzy, it’s a bad proxy.
Mark proxies clearly. A small “PROXY” tag is usually enough. A giant diagonal “PROXY” is even better if you want zero confusion.
Use a different back, or keep proxies sleeved at all times. The goal is “no one could accidentally trade this.”
Keep a “proxy list” in your deck box. It helps when someone asks what’s proxied, and it makes you look organized, which is basically cheating in adult life.
Don’t bring proxies to prize-supported events unless the organizer explicitly allows it. “But it’s casual-ish” is not a rule.
If you want a practical yardstick for what “good enough” looks like when sleeved, this Proxy King quality breakdown is useful: What to Expect From Proxy King Quality (Finish, Variation, Sleeving).
https://www.reddit.com/r/bootlegmtg/comments/1ppynjy/want_to_give_a_shoutout_to_proxy_king_great/
A quick word on alternatives (because scissors are a lifestyle choice)
DIY proxies are great when you:
want them today
only need a few cards
are playtesting fast changes
don’t care if they look a bit homemade
If you’re proxying full decks, building a cube, or you just don’t want craft time to become your whole personality, a print service can be simpler. Just make sure you’re using proxies for casual play, not sanctioned events, and never misrepresent them as real.
Conclusion
Learning how to make MTG proxy cards is basically learning how to keep Magic fun when the price tags try to make it weird. Keep your proxies readable, consistent, and obviously not authentic cards. Use sleeves. Ask your group. And please don’t be the person who turns “i printed a few playtest cards” into “i started an international incident at Commander night.”
Do it right and proxies become what they should be: a tool for more games, more testing, and fewer arguments about whether your hobby should require a second job.